Thursday, March 29, 2012

Adventure into the wilderness....well....

 I decided to hit up Chitwan National Park - otherwise known as 'Jungle Safari!!!!' I boarded the bus with much excitement. Day One the plan changed as soon as we got there (unsurprising) and we went for a jeep safari through the jungle. We saw more army men than animals...however, we did see some stunning Kingfisher birds (bright blue) and the guides were really excited about pointing out deer. I couldn't bear to tell them I wasn't really impressed by seeing deer so just acted amazed....

We stopped at a village in the jungle that was an Indian Hindu village - apparently they didn't like living in a place where other religions were practicing so they moved to the jungle. Every monsoon they have to build new clay houses and they just hang out all day doing village stuff. I checked out the local pub (above) and tried some wine that supposedly stops you getting Malaria (????)!
 The redeeming feature of the Jeep Safari was seeing a Rhino! Yay. Was quite excited by that took lots of pics.The next morning we hit up the river for a crocodile canoe ride - certainly saw some crocs, although they are about as interesting to look at as Tuatara so it was a little anti-climactic...
 Kingfisher and Croc.
 Oh, and Horton! Went to an Elephant breeding centre - saw a week old elephant, they were all quite well trained - stand up, sit down etc etc. Everyone did the mandatory elephant ride which was exciting for the first 5 mins and then a bit uncomfortable for the next 85mins! But i did share the saddle with 3 Nepali med students who were studying in Bangladesh on a govt scholarship so that was interesting and they were very friendly! I tested my Nepali on them and they understood it all.
 Sunrise this morning on a bird watching tour - again, not many birds but a nice way to start the day! During this walk I asked the guide about how the park has changed in the last 20 years. Apparently there used to be heaps of rhino all around, more tigers and many more birds, however the animals keep moving away because of the crowds. Sounded like a typical poblem for lots of wildlife places around the world. The park was initially protected after Independence once they realised the British had been game hunting the animals for fun and there were rapidly losing numbers. It was a very interesting place, despite the kind of forced tourist feel.
Good way to spend a few days - was stoked to see the big animals and to spend some time on the bus. I love Nepali bus rides - I just zone out and watch life go by - men making bricks, people washing under wells on the side of the road, tractors towing trailors, bikes with 2 back wheels carrying things, bikes with two front wheels carrying things, rickshaws, tuktuks, kids, buses, trucks, women ploughing the rice fields and replanting, etc etc - there is so much to see when you spend 5 hours driving across the country! Am now back in Pokhara for a few days before returning to Kathmandu and meeting up with the teaching team I will spend the next month with.

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Annapurna Base Camp Trek









 Hanging out on Phewa Lake pre-trek - with  Paul and Andrea

It started with a last minute decision to ride the bus one stop further and start walking at Beni, rather than Nyapul. What I didn't realise was that this turned my 1.30hr bus ride into a 5 hour trip, with only one other foreigner on board. I introduced myself to her and she invited me to travel with her asnd her guide to the town beyond Beni - as the road had been extended further from when my guide book was written and nobopdy walks it anymore. So....her guide managed to get us on the WRONG bus, and we ended upo in a village that was off the map. The village people looked at us strangely - I don't think many tourists visit that particular village...So started walking back the way we'd come and a taxi luckily came past. Finally back to Beni and on to Tatopani. LONG DAY!!! Fun travelling with chickens and goats and dodgy bridges and all the like...Was glad to see the end of that guide and very happy to be on my way the next morning! ( this pic a bridge the bhus couldn't get over with us on board..)
 I've thought alot about community while walking - you form alliances with all sorts of people. You can be connected by your 'foreignness', your lack of language, your destination or your fitness level. I've met people under all these catagories and you share a day, or lunch or just an understanding smile. Travelling makes the world seem smaller! The day before I left for the trek I visited a christian childrens home where the girls sung Shout to the Lord, and other well-known songs. Quite a special time!....But I digress...
 Sunrise from Poon Hill
 Buddisat Prayer Flags

One day trekking is much the same as the next in terms of logistics but the views and landscapes are constantly changing. One morning I started walking at 5am up Poon Hill with about 100 others to watch the sunrise, and other times I would be completely alone on the track without passing anyone. As the altitude increased, and the mountains got closer everyone became united in destination and goals, rather than the earlier endless route options you could take.


I've gotten used to the mandatory 'Namaste" greeting whenever you pass anybody.Here's a quick run down of the last 10 days!

Day One - Pokhara to Tatopani - Epic travel Adventure
Day Two - Tatopani - Ghorepani - Climbed 1700m - very hot day.
Day Three - Ghorepani - Chuile - Day of the CHILLI (hidden in my dahl baht, led to some very animated acting on my part to try find a remedy.
Day Four - Chuile - Bamboo - Day opf the foaming cow. Cows just stand in the middle of the track and dont move so you have to inch your way round them, while avoiding the biggest piles of poos with an incredible assortment of flies and beetles munching on it...
Day Five - Bamboo - Deurali - Nice natural track rather than stone steps, good views starting, butterflys dancing...
Day Six - Deurali - Annapurna base Camp - EPIC MOUNTAIN BUZZ! Slept at 4130m in snow, thunder and lightening storm.
Day Seven - ABC - Bamboo - Descended 1700m. Day of the swim in a perfect creek - most others looked at me funnily - seemed the logical thing to do for me!
Day Eight - Bamboo- Juinto - Dreaming of hot springs at days end - was incredible
Day Nine - Juinto - Syauli Bazar - Day of Indecision. Didn't want to finish trek so added in saome side routes. Saw monkeys scratching his bum!
Day Ten - SB to Pokhara - Day of the Road. Half hour walking then ended up on a new road which is being built. Interesting balance between potential economic gain and preserving nature - same the world over I guess.

 Up high in Annapurna Sanctuary
 Morning Jubilation!
 Sweet valley I walked up
 My Canadian friends, Stirling and Caroline who I spent a few days with walking.

 Village, Day 7

 Some friendly girls on the track. Swapped photos for flowers


 Step step step step.......prob did about 20,000 of these baby's!

And thats a quick run down - so many more stories but thats enough for now. Missing home but feeling great to be here! 

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Himalaya Baby!

 So the bus trip from Kathmandu to Pokhara was quite an adventure! We were in a procession of about 10 tourist buses - all varying degrees of completeness and about 20 huge trucks - all similar to a gypsy convoy in NZ. All colourful, with funny things written on the side. The road was like the Skippers Road, combined with the Otago Penninsula Road, combined with the Queen Charlotte Drive....anyone who knows how well I travel on windy roads and at the back of busses will know how daunting the first few hours were for me! Made it though, with a new friend who told me all about Nepali culture, custom and his business! Top pic of leaving kathmandu.
 And arrived in Pokhara to an incoming storm that was apparently very unusual for this time for year. Was very impressive thunder and lightening. I met some Norwegian girls on the street so hung out with them for a bit, and then found Paul and his kayaking friend which was pretty exciting!  Went to bed a happy girl and woke to a stunning day...
 Paul anbd I went for a morning run up to a temple on the top of a nearby hill. I walked most of the way up blamed the altitude and then found out it was only 400m to 1000m so was left realising Im just unfit!) Still, a 600m climb before breakfast was a good effort and we had a great breakfast at the top looking out over the Himalaya!~ HUGE MOUNTAINS! Hard to come up in the pic but was stunning.
 Random place in Pokhara
Funny sign outside a shop. The tourist areas are really nice - tar seal etc but the rest of the town is quite similar to the back blocks of Port Vila - clay dirt roads, lots of rubbish around, stray dogs, random small shops. But lots of very friendly people - heaps of Tibetian people which is cool. I cranked out mny first proper phrase in Nepali and the waiter laughed at me and my phrasebook but got me what I asked for! Sweet!

Am off tomorrow for a 10 day trek into the hills and up to 4000m at Annapurna Base Camp. Am looking forward to be in the trail and hanging out in little villages! Will update once I return!

Thanks for your messages and prayers - Dhanyabad (Thanks!) 

Monday, March 12, 2012

Namaste!

Far out! Flewinto a beautiful sunset over the hills of Kathmandu with the towering Himalaya behind. Found the man with the sign with my name and got to the hotel all good but thinking WHAT THE HECK AM I DOING BY MYSELF??!!!

To get over that I decided to go for a wander and suss some things out with made me feel much better. Changed money, ordered tea...etc

Was on the street this morning with all the street vendors very keen to give me a discount as I was their 'morning customer'. Made some good purchases, although not very good at bartering. Having found most of what I needed in the choas of small shops I decided to head out for a walk to get my bearings, maybe see a temple....it ended up just being several hours though the crowded streets but lots to look at so that ended up being good. Got lost. Found myself.

Drivers here usually drive on the left although if the right is clear then they'll take that, they toot to say IM coming!, Move, Hi, Slow down, Watch out....lots of tooting and people in cars, motorbikes and bikes all vying for the same spot - sometimes of the footpath!

There were lots of generators along the 'footpath' powering all sorts of interesting machines! Saw a bunch of guys sitting on the side of the road playing Cludo.

Amongst the crowds I found this garden (see below) which was a welcome place to sit for an hour or so and read and just think. Not many other travellers - I'm sure we have just been avoiding each other...! I feel pretty safe but noticeable with my red hair!

Otherwise,have booked a bus to Pokhara tomorrow, and am looking forward to meeting some people doing the same thing as me!

Enjoy the pics. Oh, last one of my waterpost iodine treatment - is gross! But will have to get used to it, or just buy lots of sprite and beer!
 Streets that seem to wind on and on.
 5 street intersection
 Peaceful retreat to the garden!
 Gross iodine water
And the sights of a colourful night in Thamel!

Much love xo

Thursday, March 8, 2012

One more sleep!

Yay! Months of dreaming and planning and now I get on the plane tomorrow for a distant land - am a little excited!

Plan is to get to Kathmandu and head straight down to Pokara, and start walking to Annapurna Base Camp. This gets to about 4000m I think which should be enough to start feeling to effects of altitude. Back down and then meet up with the teaching team back in Kathmandu. Then who knows!

Will update as I go....